Rare Late Georgian 14k Hand-Carved Coral Necklace with Rolling Pin Beads and Hand Holding Charms

General Information:

• Length: 16.5 inches
• Total Carat Weight: 104.44 CTW
• Precious Metal Weight: Approx. ~2.0 dwt total (approximated due to fittings types and necklace style)
• Precious Metal Material: 14k Yellow Gold (believed to be tab clasp closure, “bracelet” on hand, chatelaine loop and charms’ jump rings)
• Dimensions: Approx. 16.5” from end to end “Rolling pin” or “dog bone” hand-carved coral beads & glass spacer beads, all strung and including a persimmon/hand/charm focal point, and excluding the insert tab of the clasp 
• Weight: 44.45 grams
• Markings: Hand-inscribed “AWEG” monogrammed initials on clasp (original owner/commissioner of this necklace)
• Era: c. 1800-1820, late Georgian
• Buyer Notes: This necklace is an extraordinarily rare piece, as there is virtually only one other comparable necklace like it on the market. It is, therefore, something of a museum piece, and is a window into the earliest fashions of the 19th century. It is a masterpiece of artistry, as every single component was hand-cut, polished and carved, hand-fashioned, hand-etched, hand-strung and hand-finished. It appears that the necklace was restrung at some point in its life, at which time it seems that two base metal crimp end-beads were added to either end of the necklace strand. These crimp beads act as connectors (pictured) to the gold box tab clasp. Note that there is some evidence of adhesive on the underside of the hand at the wrist, where it connects to the clasp, though this is not at all visible when worn. As mentioned in the description, one persimmon form is likely a replacement for an earlier original. Another persimmon moves in its semi-drilled gold mount setting when pressed with the finger. The box tab clasp does securely lock in place when closed. However, as with all antique fine jewelry, settings, prongs, bezels and mountings should all be checked by your jeweler prior to wear, as a safety precaution for your investment. As well, wearers should take extreme care and prudence when enjoying jewelry of such old age and irreplaceable value.
• Please Reference Comparables: a similar Victorian amulet ring in the archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum here, as well as a similar necklace sold at auction by Christie's in 2010 here.

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Natural antique coral (harvested pre-1800)
• Center Stone Count: One hundred twenty-two (122) total carved coral components
• Center Stone Carat Weight: Approx. 71.94 total carats of coral by formula (~39.0 ctw beads, 12.83 ctw “persimmon” forms, 7.37 ctw carved hand & 12.74 ctw charms)
• Center Stone Dimensions: “rolling pin” bead average ~11.0x5.0 mm
• Center Stone Shape: Various hand carved components
• Center Stone Color: True red-orange; NOT Angel Skin, Salmon or pink

• Side Stone Type: Glass
• Side Stone Count: Thirteen (13) individual glass spacer beads
• Side Stone Carat Weight: 32.5 ctw; ~2.5 ct ea.
• Side Stone Dimensions: 8.6 x 5.6 mm ea.
• Side Stone Shapes: “flower” / “pumpkin” shapes
• Side Stone Color: Milky white
• Side Stone Clarity: Opaque

The Story:

An incredibly rare relic of the Georgian era (1714-1837), this ornate necklace consists of expertly hand-carved corals interspersed with glass spacer beads. In sum, there are 122 carved coral components, each one likely Mediterranean in origin, harvested hundreds of years ago prior to modern coral reef destruction and paucity. The coral components are very well matched, showing even color throughout each piece and no readily visible inclusions. Their coloration is a true red-orange, with red tones dominating. Indeed, this necklace is not at all the Angel Skin or Salmon coloring of common coral jewelry in circulation. Rather, this coral is a much richer color, a closer cousin to the Blood coral which commands the highest values amongst vintage pieces.

The strand of the necklace consists of intricately carved beads, the shapes of which are known by collectors as “Rolling Pins” or “Dog Bones”. These are arranged in a criss-cross pattern, fitting into one another in the style of Lincoln Logs. Every ninth bead is a white glass spacer, which appears like a three dimensional flower or pumpkin shape strung through their centers. The featured portion of the necklace, which hangs at the jugular notch, boasts the most elaborate coral carvings to disguise a 14k yellow gold tab insert clasp. This clasp bears the desirable patina of very old gold, and better yet, a monogram of the woman who originally owned this necklace: “AWEG”. The letter “E” in the monogram is partially obscured by excess solder, but is still legible with a discerning eye.

The clasp poses as the necklace’s pendant, and is surmounted by a quantity of four round fruits which are meant to resemble ripened persimmons (upon close inspection, one of these four appears to be a plain rounded coral, half-drilled and likely a replacement for a lost original component). Persimmons tell a story of wisdom and growth, which is developed through transformation. Extending from the cluster of persimmons is a finely carved lady’s hand, which retains its fingers and skillful anatomical details that give the impression of a firm grip. The hand is decorated by a slim gold bracelet, upon which is a coral cabochon, giving a lifelike fashionableness to the figure. The hand grasps a gold loop on which four carved coral charms freely hang by golden jump rings. These charms are highly symbolic and together describe the dignified character of a Georgian lady, while also speaking to the trends of the time:

The first charm is a single flower, its stem wrapped in spiraled fabric. This represents a woman’s virtue and purity, preserved yet blossoming. The next charm is a downward facing fish, a promise of prosperity and fertility, and also of deep knowledge. Third is a dog, which lies in reverent submission, a symbol of loyalty, fidelity and protection. The last charm is in the form of an ancient amphora, which was historically used to store and transport precious liquid contents, and could be set upright by embedding the rounded base into the ground. Thus, this charm speaks to the value and practicality of one’s intellect and experience. Together, these amulets bless their wearer and serve as reminders of upstanding merits and ambitions.

This necklace was likely purchased by a very wealthy excursionist while in Italy during their Grand Tour journey. Beginning in the mid-1700s, it was common for wealthy British and American colonial young adults and newly-weds to depart on a “Grand Tour”, a sometimes years-long trip to famous parts of Europe, and most centrally, Italy. Often, hand-carved coral cameos, charms and other jewels were purchased as souvenirs from Italian artisans. Later during the Mid and later Victorian period, other kinds of specialties, such as micromosaics and revival style (recalling recent excavations of ancient sites) jewelry pieces grew to popularity. This necklace can be most certainly dated to the earliest years of the 19th century, as it was designed to complement the necklines of the day, while also arousing intrigue and conversation on the sophisticated topic of the Grand Tour experience.

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